19 Dec Saturday Day 31
Land in sight, we called this morning, unfortunately the wind died Tuesday evening at
sunset, so at night we harrowed on in under 5 knots, which
was not enough to make the tide we went for yesterday. But we see land,
there is always something. We have sent off an email to those who wait ashore that they
must book their hostel for a night. I will not deny
that we are frustrated, for we are, very.
Showing posts with label Polynesia to Chile. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Polynesia to Chile. Show all posts
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Friday, December 18, 2009
Lat S 40 37°/ long W 077 41°
18 Dec Friday Day 30
Now we are on the finish, as it looks now with course and speed, we
will make it to the low tide tomorrow. Which means that we can be moored
in the afternoon. There is a narrow place (Canal Chacao), which we first
must pass and which must be at the right time. Tide
prevents the passage at certain times. After that, we are inside the
archipelago. The island is called Isla Chiloe. We are looking forward to
feeling solid ground under our feet.
Now we are on the finish, as it looks now with course and speed, we
will make it to the low tide tomorrow. Which means that we can be moored
in the afternoon. There is a narrow place (Canal Chacao), which we first
must pass and which must be at the right time. Tide
prevents the passage at certain times. After that, we are inside the
archipelago. The island is called Isla Chiloe. We are looking forward to
feeling solid ground under our feet.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Lat S 40 00°/ long W 080 34°
17 Dec Thursday Day 29
Four weeks ago we set out from Papeete. That's a long time at
sea, have not been so long at sea since I sailed with Broström
at the time the Suez Canal still was closed. Then it took about 30 days from Europe
to the Far East. The crew was 30 then, now we are two.
It cannot be denied that we yearn for a full night's sleep.
Now we are starting the countdown. The way it looks now, arrival will be
on Saturday, we are planning to catch a tide in the morning.
Four weeks ago we set out from Papeete. That's a long time at
sea, have not been so long at sea since I sailed with Broström
at the time the Suez Canal still was closed. Then it took about 30 days from Europe
to the Far East. The crew was 30 then, now we are two.
It cannot be denied that we yearn for a full night's sleep.
Now we are starting the countdown. The way it looks now, arrival will be
on Saturday, we are planning to catch a tide in the morning.
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Lat S 39 16°/ long W 084 24°
16 Dec Wednesday Day 28
Why are you awake at night, some people ask, there are no
other boats anyway?
It is a legitimate question, why we keep watches at night. In the waters we
are sailing now, there is not much traffic to consider, I think we have
seen a light one night a week ago. But it is rather the
sailing itself keeping us awake. I can take as an example last night when after
a day with strong wind and close-reefed sails, we suddenly do not have any wind at all
and it also shifts direction. Then it's good that someone is there
trimming the sails, adjusting the autopilot. Now we are in a position where we do not
want to miss a single knot, we yearn for arrival. We
have about 500 NM to go.
Why are you awake at night, some people ask, there are no
other boats anyway?
It is a legitimate question, why we keep watches at night. In the waters we
are sailing now, there is not much traffic to consider, I think we have
seen a light one night a week ago. But it is rather the
sailing itself keeping us awake. I can take as an example last night when after
a day with strong wind and close-reefed sails, we suddenly do not have any wind at all
and it also shifts direction. Then it's good that someone is there
trimming the sails, adjusting the autopilot. Now we are in a position where we do not
want to miss a single knot, we yearn for arrival. We
have about 500 NM to go.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Lat S 38 23°/ long W 087 42°
15 Dec Tuesday Day 27
Tonight was a very starry night, the stars dipped right down
to the horizon, and there was an unusually high number of shooting stars. It is said that
you may wish for something at a shooting star, you must not talk about what
your wish, so I will not.
But now we have at least a good wind this morning ...
(According to a comment from Cousin Anders the shooting stars belong to the meteor swarm Geminides. The Earth crosses their path every year at about Lucia)
Tonight was a very starry night, the stars dipped right down
to the horizon, and there was an unusually high number of shooting stars. It is said that
you may wish for something at a shooting star, you must not talk about what
your wish, so I will not.
But now we have at least a good wind this morning ...
(According to a comment from Cousin Anders the shooting stars belong to the meteor swarm Geminides. The Earth crosses their path every year at about Lucia)
Monday, December 14, 2009
Lat s 38 17°/ long W 090 30°
14 Dec Monday Day 26
Tonight we have been becalmed on a mirror-calm sea. Sky and
horizon was a black universe. We have a completely improbable situation
where weather forecasts and GRIB files talk about the N-NW winds, and
reality is completely different. Patience tested, remaining fuel
gauged. Nature sets us on trial and at some point the wind will come,
we hope.
Tonight we have been becalmed on a mirror-calm sea. Sky and
horizon was a black universe. We have a completely improbable situation
where weather forecasts and GRIB files talk about the N-NW winds, and
reality is completely different. Patience tested, remaining fuel
gauged. Nature sets us on trial and at some point the wind will come,
we hope.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Lat S 37 38°/ long W 091 01°
December 13 Sunday Day 25 GMT -4
No Lucia with coffee and saffron buns for us. On the other hand, we had a visit by Mr. Albatross. Majestic, giant, handsome, hovering
soaring large and powerful almost entirely without wing movements. You are totally
charmed just stand enjoying his air show. At one of
his turns around us, he is so close that you see his face (is it called
face on birds?) I marvel at his clumsy beak.
Last day distance is low, partly due to the fact that we reset our clock
again (23) and partly on a poor wind that forced us to tack.
No Lucia with coffee and saffron buns for us. On the other hand, we had a visit by Mr. Albatross. Majestic, giant, handsome, hovering
soaring large and powerful almost entirely without wing movements. You are totally
charmed just stand enjoying his air show. At one of
his turns around us, he is so close that you see his face (is it called
face on birds?) I marvel at his clumsy beak.
Last day distance is low, partly due to the fact that we reset our clock
again (23) and partly on a poor wind that forced us to tack.
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Lat S 37 34°/ long W 093 08°
December 12 Saturday Day 24
Night work. As if the problems with the latten in the sail weren't enough, the
rope which stretches the sail aft snapped off in the night. We had to take in sail
until there is weather for repairs. The first reef usually does not do much to
speed.
The countdown has started, today we are below 1000 NM (983) to go, so good
it will be getting into port, sleeping the whole night, going for a walk,
feeling solid ground under our feet. Best of all will be signing
on the new crew, mi hijo y su amigo, who are already in
country, though not in P. Montti. We have been in contact by email so that they are kept
updated with the date of arrival.
As you can see, I listened through my Spanish lessons on the iPod
trying to translate some thoughts into Spanish.
Night work. As if the problems with the latten in the sail weren't enough, the
rope which stretches the sail aft snapped off in the night. We had to take in sail
until there is weather for repairs. The first reef usually does not do much to
speed.
The countdown has started, today we are below 1000 NM (983) to go, so good
it will be getting into port, sleeping the whole night, going for a walk,
feeling solid ground under our feet. Best of all will be signing
on the new crew, mi hijo y su amigo, who are already in
country, though not in P. Montti. We have been in contact by email so that they are kept
updated with the date of arrival.
As you can see, I listened through my Spanish lessons on the iPod
trying to translate some thoughts into Spanish.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Lat S 36 40°/ long W 096 10°
December 11 Friday Day 23
The excitement rises and hey we're making speed! We're in full
sailing gear, splash in the side and salt spray on the specs. During the night, we have
significantly reduced the sail area and we still make more than 8 knots. We are
going to pass a cold front and in the morning when we saw the wind turning from
NW - SW, we decided to gybe, to get a more favorable course.
After breakfast, we sat outside and checked the course and speed. Then
I saw that one of the throughgoing battens in the mainsail was on the
way out of its pocket. Exciting minutes out on the deck, getting the sail down
without shaking so that the batten would not make one last dive into the ocean.
That sort of batten is not easy to find in Puerto Montti. With Th at one end
of the sail and me at the other we pulled for all we were worth, I stretched
out my entire length + a bit to get a last minute grip on batten
and sail. The mainsail gets to rest for a while and we run before the wind for the inner
staysail.
The excitement rises and hey we're making speed! We're in full
sailing gear, splash in the side and salt spray on the specs. During the night, we have
significantly reduced the sail area and we still make more than 8 knots. We are
going to pass a cold front and in the morning when we saw the wind turning from
NW - SW, we decided to gybe, to get a more favorable course.
After breakfast, we sat outside and checked the course and speed. Then
I saw that one of the throughgoing battens in the mainsail was on the
way out of its pocket. Exciting minutes out on the deck, getting the sail down
without shaking so that the batten would not make one last dive into the ocean.
That sort of batten is not easy to find in Puerto Montti. With Th at one end
of the sail and me at the other we pulled for all we were worth, I stretched
out my entire length + a bit to get a last minute grip on batten
and sail. The mainsail gets to rest for a while and we run before the wind for the inner
staysail.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Lat S 35 36°/ long W 99 16°
December 10 Thursday Day 22
Three weeks at sea, one week left? Yes it depends on the wind. The 24 hours that went have been okay again with good speed and wind direction. We have now
sailed 3195 NM and have 1301 to go to Puerto Montti.
(San Diego - Marquesas was 2800 NM)
I read the pilot book how to make the inwards clearance, it's the "Armada" in
charge of formalities there. Armada I understand is the country's sea-going
military. We must also seek permission (zarpe) to sail in
their channels and archipelagos. It is an advantage to have all the papers ready
upon arrival. Once there, you must report daily where you are
and where you are going. There cannot be many to keep track of, or
I think they would give up the system. I'm glad we do not have this
in Sweden, imagine a summer day, keeping track of all amateurs sailing. Puuh
Three weeks at sea, one week left? Yes it depends on the wind. The 24 hours that went have been okay again with good speed and wind direction. We have now
sailed 3195 NM and have 1301 to go to Puerto Montti.
(San Diego - Marquesas was 2800 NM)
I read the pilot book how to make the inwards clearance, it's the "Armada" in
charge of formalities there. Armada I understand is the country's sea-going
military. We must also seek permission (zarpe) to sail in
their channels and archipelagos. It is an advantage to have all the papers ready
upon arrival. Once there, you must report daily where you are
and where you are going. There cannot be many to keep track of, or
I think they would give up the system. I'm glad we do not have this
in Sweden, imagine a summer day, keeping track of all amateurs sailing. Puuh
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Lat S 35 02°/ long W 102 00°
December 9 Wednesday Day 21 GMT -5
Anna Day - Congratulations to all of you who have namesday
At the stern we have two large stores, one on the port side and one on
starboard side. "Lasarett" they are called, an old term for stores
aft sails on sailing ships. They house spare pull tabs, fenders, life-belts,
etc. There is also Otto Autopilot. He has worked for us throughout the autumn
but a few days ago started to whine and scream at the slightest
course correction. We discovered that the expansion tank with his
hydraulic oil sat lower down in the boat than the controller. We were had to give him
a little first aid by hanging the bottle higher, so that
self-pressure fills up the oil. It now looks like we have a
dropping-bottle hanging above the hospital. Otto is very satisfied.
Anna Day - Congratulations to all of you who have namesday
At the stern we have two large stores, one on the port side and one on
starboard side. "Lasarett" they are called, an old term for stores
aft sails on sailing ships. They house spare pull tabs, fenders, life-belts,
etc. There is also Otto Autopilot. He has worked for us throughout the autumn
but a few days ago started to whine and scream at the slightest
course correction. We discovered that the expansion tank with his
hydraulic oil sat lower down in the boat than the controller. We were had to give him
a little first aid by hanging the bottle higher, so that
self-pressure fills up the oil. It now looks like we have a
dropping-bottle hanging above the hospital. Otto is very satisfied.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Lat S34 58°/ long W 104 36°
December 8 Tuesday Day 20
Time is a measure. Some say time is money. Some believe time is flying
and some think time stands still. We now have soon been out for three
weeks and there'll be one more. How long is four weeks really?
It can be a vacation month.
It may be the time from Advent to Christmas.
In everyday life there is always so much to do, getting to the bank,
having time to shop, getting here and getting there, it is obvious that
a lot happens in one day, and even more in a month.
We think time goes very fast onboard, it is probably because
not much happens, the days are all the same and our focus is on
making the distance.
What we want to get done in a day here, we have time for.
So time goes fast, all the time, whether you have a lot time, or very little,
are at home or at sea. Now it got complicated, and what would I
really say?
Time is a measure. Some say time is money. Some believe time is flying
and some think time stands still. We now have soon been out for three
weeks and there'll be one more. How long is four weeks really?
It can be a vacation month.
It may be the time from Advent to Christmas.
In everyday life there is always so much to do, getting to the bank,
having time to shop, getting here and getting there, it is obvious that
a lot happens in one day, and even more in a month.
We think time goes very fast onboard, it is probably because
not much happens, the days are all the same and our focus is on
making the distance.
What we want to get done in a day here, we have time for.
So time goes fast, all the time, whether you have a lot time, or very little,
are at home or at sea. Now it got complicated, and what would I
really say?
Monday, December 7, 2009
Lat S 34 28°/ long W 107 15°
December 7 Monday Day 19
When the wind is so modest that we run the motor, it is time to take the opportunity to
mend sails. We have two sails on a roll. Jib sail and inner staysail. Both have so called "sacrifice cloth" which is made of different material than the sail - it's the
piece which is exposed when the sail is rolled up. The sun takes a mean toll,
especially of the threads where the clothis sewn on. Seams are bursting,
flutterin in tatters. I made an effort with tape, needle and thread in
Papeete, and today we go again. I have been at it a few hours now,
taping sewing and patching. It reminds me of the endless job of
darning, patching and mending Y 's favourite rag doll that just had to
survive childhood. Every night when she had done her day's duty and Y was asleep, I went
down and got the rag doll to repair a broken cheek or nose. Gullefin
survived.
When the wind is so modest that we run the motor, it is time to take the opportunity to
mend sails. We have two sails on a roll. Jib sail and inner staysail. Both have so called "sacrifice cloth" which is made of different material than the sail - it's the
piece which is exposed when the sail is rolled up. The sun takes a mean toll,
especially of the threads where the clothis sewn on. Seams are bursting,
flutterin in tatters. I made an effort with tape, needle and thread in
Papeete, and today we go again. I have been at it a few hours now,
taping sewing and patching. It reminds me of the endless job of
darning, patching and mending Y 's favourite rag doll that just had to
survive childhood. Every night when she had done her day's duty and Y was asleep, I went
down and got the rag doll to repair a broken cheek or nose. Gullefin
survived.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Lat S 33 41°/ long W 110 03°
December 6 Sunday, Day 18
STORM turned into CALM, we do not understand the meteorologists here in the Pacific.
Had visitors after dinner yesterday, the storm is conspicuous by its absence, but
we had another good visit: a whole flock of dolphins jumping
around the boat. Do you remember when we last saw a flock of dolphins? That was
One morning in September outside the U.S. west coast, south of Santa Barbara.
The dolphins yesterday said that they looked after us throughout the Pacific
and finally, they had sighted us again. We exchanged polite phrases and
watched their antics. They swam behind us for a long time and sometimes ahead of us,
we observed a speed of 7 knots and they still had no problem to hang on. As long as there's
life there is hope.
STORM turned into CALM, we do not understand the meteorologists here in the Pacific.
Had visitors after dinner yesterday, the storm is conspicuous by its absence, but
we had another good visit: a whole flock of dolphins jumping
around the boat. Do you remember when we last saw a flock of dolphins? That was
One morning in September outside the U.S. west coast, south of Santa Barbara.
The dolphins yesterday said that they looked after us throughout the Pacific
and finally, they had sighted us again. We exchanged polite phrases and
watched their antics. They swam behind us for a long time and sometimes ahead of us,
we observed a speed of 7 knots and they still had no problem to hang on. As long as there's
life there is hope.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Lat S 32 35°/ long W 112 52°
December 5 Saturday Day 17, average speed 6.6 knots
Storm Warning, I read the weather report from Playa Ancha Radio. The area
is a couple of days to the east of our course, so much can happen before we get
there. But the weather is changeable, we have worked all night with our
sails because the wind was so variable, not in direction but in
strength. We have rolled out smaller sail, rolled in larger sail, taken in a
reef in the mainsail, taken two reefs in the mainsail, then the wind has subsided and
the procedure had to be done in the other direction. Is this a sign of a storm? We may
well see.
Storm Warning, I read the weather report from Playa Ancha Radio. The area
is a couple of days to the east of our course, so much can happen before we get
there. But the weather is changeable, we have worked all night with our
sails because the wind was so variable, not in direction but in
strength. We have rolled out smaller sail, rolled in larger sail, taken in a
reef in the mainsail, taken two reefs in the mainsail, then the wind has subsided and
the procedure had to be done in the other direction. Is this a sign of a storm? We may
well see.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Lat S 32 30°/ long W 116 02°
December 4 Friday Day 16, average speed 6.75 knots
I spent the night watch reading in our pilotbok of Chile, all the way
from Puerto Montti to Tierra el Fuego, it is about 1000 NM. There are
thousands of berths in the fiords. There is a place 310' south of P
Montti called Laguna San Rafael, where are you in a lagoon at a
glacier and there are dolphins, penguins and sea lions. Sounds completely
fantastic. Further names Strait of Magellan, Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego,
Cape Horn, names that have always attracted me ever since I read Joshua Slocum
Sailing Alone Around the World. He had problems with the indigenous population during his voyage around Tierra del Fuego; when he anchored for the
night he laid out thumbtacks on the deck so that no one would come on board.
Times have changed, thumbtacks no longer needed, but the magnificence of nature
remains.
I spent the night watch reading in our pilotbok of Chile, all the way
from Puerto Montti to Tierra el Fuego, it is about 1000 NM. There are
thousands of berths in the fiords. There is a place 310' south of P
Montti called Laguna San Rafael, where are you in a lagoon at a
glacier and there are dolphins, penguins and sea lions. Sounds completely
fantastic. Further names Strait of Magellan, Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego,
Cape Horn, names that have always attracted me ever since I read Joshua Slocum
Sailing Alone Around the World. He had problems with the indigenous population during his voyage around Tierra del Fuego; when he anchored for the
night he laid out thumbtacks on the deck so that no one would come on board.
Times have changed, thumbtacks no longer needed, but the magnificence of nature
remains.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Lat S 33 04°/ long W 119 10°
December 3 Thursday Day 15
Today it's 14 days since we left Tahiti. I have made a small
summary:
The temperature has dropped from + 27 to +17.
We have sailed 2171 NM.
We have seen 14 unique sunrises and sunsets.
We have seen ONE fishing boat.
We have seen birds every day.
We have drunk 28 cups of coffee each.
We have been hard on the port tack 99% of the time.
We have due to this grown longer left legs.
We have seen a large flying fish in the eye.
Today it's 14 days since we left Tahiti. I have made a small
summary:
The temperature has dropped from + 27 to +17.
We have sailed 2171 NM.
We have seen 14 unique sunrises and sunsets.
We have seen ONE fishing boat.
We have seen birds every day.
We have drunk 28 cups of coffee each.
We have been hard on the port tack 99% of the time.
We have due to this grown longer left legs.
We have seen a large flying fish in the eye.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Lat S33 21°/ long W 121 27°
December 2 Wednesday Day 14, daily average speed 6.25 knots
Wake up! at 0300 is it's dusky outside as a bleak November day in
Gothenburg. My watch always begins in the middle of the night, it is always a bit
tough to leave the berth then, but it is quite amazing when the moon is up
how much light it gives. Tonight we also saw the lights from a passing fishing vessel
at the horizon. When I got up had Th mounted up our big oil lamp
which we bought in the U.S.. He had hung it above the saloon table. The
coziness factor was raised further. It's impossible to compare with the
thousands of watts you are doing away with every day in Gothenburg now in December, but
out here it was a great event. In a few days now, the climate
has changed from tropical to, yes plain dingy coldish weather simply.
Wake up! at 0300 is it's dusky outside as a bleak November day in
Gothenburg. My watch always begins in the middle of the night, it is always a bit
tough to leave the berth then, but it is quite amazing when the moon is up
how much light it gives. Tonight we also saw the lights from a passing fishing vessel
at the horizon. When I got up had Th mounted up our big oil lamp
which we bought in the U.S.. He had hung it above the saloon table. The
coziness factor was raised further. It's impossible to compare with the
thousands of watts you are doing away with every day in Gothenburg now in December, but
out here it was a great event. In a few days now, the climate
has changed from tropical to, yes plain dingy coldish weather simply.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Lat S 31 33°/ long W 123 30°
December 1, Tuesday Day 13 GMT -8 , daily average speed 6.8 knots
Yesterday was the day of hopes, today is the day of goals. We set deliberately and
unconsciously different targets; sailed one third of the route, sailed half
o.s.v. When we sailed to French Polynesia we ticked off the latitudes.
On this stretch we tick off longitudes. Now we have
been looking forward a couple of days to crossing the W120 degrees, whhich means
crossing the border to Chile SRR (search and rescue region) and their
economic zone. This means that we will benefit from the Chilean weather reports
I have already been taking home these for a few days and think they are
good and easy to read. They state just where low and high pressure centers are.
In addition, father-in-law will be able to plot us on the chart again
since his chart of Chile begins at W120 degrees.
In a few days, we will also have sailed half the distance.
Yesterday was the day of hopes, today is the day of goals. We set deliberately and
unconsciously different targets; sailed one third of the route, sailed half
o.s.v. When we sailed to French Polynesia we ticked off the latitudes.
On this stretch we tick off longitudes. Now we have
been looking forward a couple of days to crossing the W120 degrees, whhich means
crossing the border to Chile SRR (search and rescue region) and their
economic zone. This means that we will benefit from the Chilean weather reports
I have already been taking home these for a few days and think they are
good and easy to read. They state just where low and high pressure centers are.
In addition, father-in-law will be able to plot us on the chart again
since his chart of Chile begins at W120 degrees.
In a few days, we will also have sailed half the distance.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Lat S 29 49°/ long W 125 47°
November 30 Monday Day 12, daily average speed 6.5 knots
After a very moderate Advent celebration, it is now Monday and as you
see, Day 12 of this leg. Today is the day of hope, we hope to get
fish, many fish recipes are waiting, but the fish is still conspicuous by its absence. We
hope for more wind, in the small hours it died out again, blast. You should
obviously not cry wolf, but a bit of wind.... Mare Pacifico.
We also hope that the beautiful white bird that tried to
land on our sail for several hours in the morning, now has found a better
landing. We hope that the PET bottle that floated past was thrown in by
mistake, and was not addressed to us. Message in a bottle?
After a very moderate Advent celebration, it is now Monday and as you
see, Day 12 of this leg. Today is the day of hope, we hope to get
fish, many fish recipes are waiting, but the fish is still conspicuous by its absence. We
hope for more wind, in the small hours it died out again, blast. You should
obviously not cry wolf, but a bit of wind.... Mare Pacifico.
We also hope that the beautiful white bird that tried to
land on our sail for several hours in the morning, now has found a better
landing. We hope that the PET bottle that floated past was thrown in by
mistake, and was not addressed to us. Message in a bottle?
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